Coolest Sewing Notion: Toronto Public Library

Alabama Chanin’s Alabama Studio Sewing + Design

Living in Toronto, we have a fantastic library system. And I consider it a sewing notion! With a library card, you can reserve material and have them sent to your local library for pick up. You can get reminders to return materials/pick up your hold items e-mailed to you. You can check out e-books (I haven’t tried this yet). And you can return your books to any branch, not just the branch you borrowed from. It’s pretty awesome. Thanks to Gillian from Crafting a Rainbow to remind me of this!

So what did I borrow?  The second Drape Drape book, Alabama Studio Sewing + Design and Gerties New Book for Better Sewing (which is still in transit).  Last year I checked out Twinkle Sews.

I think each book deserves it’s own post, no?  By the way, the Trusting Canadian Library also includes the actual paper patterns in the books.  So I can trace my heart away and get the patterns too!  The Twinkle Sews book had a CD so I just copied the pattern jpgs.

Alabama Chanin

In all my hours spent on sewing related internet stuff, I just recently – like in the past 2 weeks discovered Alabama Chanin.  CAUTION: YOUR MIND IS ABOUT TO BE BLOWN!!

Seriously high-end sustainable couture sewing & embellishment totally hand sewn.  The whole garment.  Skirts retail upwards of $900, that’s how high end this is.  Made in the USA with locally sourced materials where possible, and hand crafted by skilled artisans paid real wages.  But wait - it’s accessible too, as the owner of the company realizes that the cost of many of these items is out of reach for the average person.  So she has published several books with patterns and detailed instructions on the techniques used to create these unique garments.  Here’s a sample so you get the drift:

The garments are created with cotton jersey (which they sell on their website – I’ll put links at the very bottom of the post) and ‘organically’ embellished with several techniques; stencilling; applique & reverse applique. All of which is further embellished by hand embroidery and/or beading depending on the complexity and use of the finished garment. And the garments are all SEWN BY HAND folks. Yes, including the construction. Here are some samples – the price is for a sewing kit, not the finished garment:

Garden Fitted Knit Reverse applique top: Kit $130.00

DIY Rose Tank Dress Kit: $340.00

Here is a sample of a heavily embellished RTW garment:

Little Folks Wrap skirt: $2,250.00

The book covers all of the techniques used to make these stunning garments, and includes patterns/instructions for tops (t shirts, tank top, tunics), dresses short and long, skirts short and long, bucket hat, poncho, wrap and fingerless gloves)

There are 3 books with techniques and patterns, some include home sewing, this book features garments only and is the latest.  The studio also sells materials and has workshops.  Here are some fun links:

Alabama Chanin Website

Alabama Chanin on Style.com

Restless Grace (a blog featuring some Alabama Chanin Garments)

Alabama Chanin Garments on Patternreview.com (you’ll need to be a member – which is free, to see them)

Creativebug.com – video workshops on Alabama Chanin Techniques ($11.99)

 

Because the owner is a former filmmaker, there are quite a view Vimeo videos about the clothing and company; here is one from Youtube.

Vogue 8884 View C – The Reveal

Vogue 8884 Trench Coat in Wool Gaberdine

A trench coat has been on my to-do list for some time; I have collected quite a few patterns – and I liked this particular pattern as soon as it came out because it was classic, tailored and had some nice details like a seam across the bust, a 2 piece sleeve, double breasted styling and a slim fit. I waffled back and forth on a ruffle at the bottom (see previous post on this – and thanks for all who participated in the voting!) and eventually left it off because:
1) I was not going to make a muslin
2) I didn’t have enough fabric
3) this coat took so long to sew anyway I’m glad I didn’t add the complexity of a self-drafted possible wardrobe fail to the mix!

This coat took me over 30 hours of sewing time.  There were 24 pattern pieces in this baby!  I didn’t make a muslin, I cut a size 14 & simply added 1 1/2″ to the length of the sleeves and body.   It’s fused with pro-weft for the fusible bits; and has topstitching and edgestitching throughout, a topstitched welt pocket, a separate undercollar (cut on the bias) and collar stand.  It’s fully lined and has sleeve belts and belts.  There are 4 buttonholes marching down the front (which gave me the most worry).  The fabric is a wool gabardine in a classic camel from Fabricland, marked down to $10/m from $30/m.  It sewed up like a dream.  The rayon lining came from my stash.   The finished coat feels substantial, but not heavy.

Fit Notes:

The only gripe I have is that the shoulders are a bit wide. I added shoulder pads (as called for in the pattern) but I would have preferred not to.  It was too late to adjust the shoulders at that point, I had the sleeves set in and there was no going back!  I think the photos look balanced, overall I would have preferred a closer upper body fit.

This is a size 14, and there is plenty of room to wear a garment underneath (in this photo I have a cardigan & silk shell under the coat) without looking too bulky.  The sleeves are certainly wide enough to wear a blazer underneath, as well.

Construction notes:

I took some notes as to where my needle and feet were positioned to accomplish all that topstitching as accurately as possible.  This helped a lot as there was much starting & stopping as I worked in timeblocks of an hour or hour and a half when I had time.  The great thing is with a pattern with this many steps I was able to see progress after each task; even by breaking it into hour blocks of sewing.  I also had to do the topstitching when I wasn’t too tired.   It took over 3 weeks to complete, but I have a well made garment that will be worn for quite a few years, I hope!

You can’t see it but there is a buckle on the sleeve belt.

The gabardine pressed great and behaved beautifully with the exception of easing in the sleeves, which I should have known!  They are the only part I wish had turned out a bit better.  I also added 3 extra rows of stitching on the collar band, this is a RTW detail I liked when I scanned the interwebs.  I had to cut the belt and sleeve belts a bit narrower than the pattern to accommodate the buckles I found.

Overall, I’m quite pleased.   DH had me show it off to a couple of friends yesterday and I got the right reaction – gasps of amazement.  One of them compared it to similar trenches she had seen recently at a Burberry outlet for upwards of $1400 (of course, with my time thrown it, this coat is priceless!!)

It feels good to be able to have this made just in time for the weather to be warm enough to wear it.  Now onto some easier sewing projects!

More Style Arc Patterns

I was lusting after the March Freebie enough to buy it & some others. Honestly, it was just to save the shipping, I swear! A couple of new McCalls also made it into my bag from my recent Fabricland trip; how did that happen?

Style Arc:

I see this made up in a woven as well as a knit, or perhaps a knit back, woven front:

And to try some pants, as everyone on the interwebs is raving about them:

The freebie:

New McCalls:

The “too lazy to draft one” skirt (planning a Maxi version):

McCalls 6725

This Henley style t was too cute & a great basic:

Now to work on a plan for Spring/Summer 2013 Sewing!

Sneak Peek of my newest project

Vogue 8884 Trench Coat in Wool Gaberdine

More later on this baby!!

Style Arc Marie Jacket

This is a project I finished earlier in March, before I began the long sewing odyssey of sewing my Trench Coat (finished today – yay) it is the Style Arc Marie Jacket.  It’s a waterfall-type jacket with an asymmetrical drape closure which forms a cowl neckline.  Great lines! It ended up a bit longer than expected; and the wavy zip is annoying…looks good open though…

The fabric is a mystery rib knit in a ponte weight from Fabricland. This is a 14 – I have since ordered 3 more Style Arc patterns and have gone down a size.  I will make this again, but shorten the jacket.   The style Arc patterns seem to be drafted long.

 

I can’t tell you of just how sick and tired I am of the cold weather.  I feel that everything I own is black and dreary…I’m looking forward to making some clothes in spring colours.   With the Trench done (I left off the ruffle, just because I didn’t have enough extra fabric for it & it would have been fiddly drafting it as well) I can get on to some easy peasy sewing.  The trench took 3 weeks to sew, and about 36 sewing hours.   Hopefully I can post some photos tomorrow!

My Next Project V8884

Sewing a trench/spring coat has been on my wishlist for a while.  Yesterday I took some time analyzing this with the often made and highly recommended McCalls 5525.  So why did I choose this?

• I liked the tailored fit and seam detail
• it is styled like a trench, but a shirt style collar (with stand) instead of a big wide collar may speed up the sewing time and make it a bit easier
• the Vogue pattern has a 2-piece sleeve

I have decided to take this project s-l-o-w-l-y.  I cut out the pattern and fabric yesterday.  Today’s task is interfacing.  One day will be the lining (which I shall wash today) and one day marking then we will be good to sew!  Now I have to source some leather buttons and belt buckle; luckily there is a members sale this week at Fabricland should I need more thread or interfacing.

The fabric is a camel wool gaberdine from Fabricland for $10/m.  I plan on using pro-weft interfacing and leather covered buttons + belt buckle.   The lining is in my stash, it will either be a rayon twill or a funky poly lining with a ‘Prada’ logo (a few years ago at Fabricland they had a selection of linings with faux-brand names)

I’m toying with adding a bottom ruffle if I can find some more fabric to copy this Burberry trench, just cause it’s so darn cute!

So cast your votes, ruffle or no?:

Style Arc Fay Skirt – AKA the “Magic Skirt”

I have had a serious thing for Style Arc patterns for a while! If you’re not familiar with these patterns, you must go check out their website immediately! New designs come out once a month on the first day of the month. I want you to know that I hardly ever stalk it hitting the refresh key for the new designs. When February designs came out I immediately fell in love with the Marie Jacket. To make the postage efficient (it’s expensive!) I bought the Fay Skirt as well. Each month there is a freebie pattern included. The patterns are printed in one size (I bought size 14) and are printed on heavy tracing paper. The instructions are written, not illustrated; but there is an illustration of the pattern pieces included, as well as a swatch.

I had no problem following the instructions, even though they were written in Austrailian. As a matter of fact, they are much easier to interpret than Burda Style instructions, which are apparently written in English by actual English speakers.

Anyway, enough faux-humour; here is the pattern:

and here is my version:

What makes this magic you ask? This skirt is lined, and there is ONE pattern piece!!  Sew the side seams, flip it up and make an elastic casing and it’s done.  And it’s not just a tube, there is shaping drafted in there.  Probably a 30 min cut & sewing time total.  I would recommend an ITY weight knit to keep the drape and not have the finished skirt to heavy.

This lovely fabric also has a story!  I was on our annual ski trip last week in Mont St. Anne with DH and 7 other friends & my brother in law.  We rent a condo and have a great time.  I was super stressed as I have a very difficult real estate deal causing me all kinds of trouble so was very distracted.  DH suggested a side trip to Quebec City for fabric shopping.  After a little on-line research, we went to the charming Tissus Claudiany, south of Quebec City.  This tiny store had mainly beautiful knits; many of them desgner remants. The helpful staff spoke enough English that I was not forced to speak mangled French too much (I can order at Timmy’s en francais, but that’s about my limit). Gorgeous prints and interesting puckered and textured knits.  Very resonably priced at $12.98 & $14.98/m.  I bought this crosshatch poly jersey, two gorgeous pieces of a rib-knit from the Canadian designer Joseph Ribkoff and a decorative zipper with a python printed tape.  What a wonderful hubby…he even said “are you sure you don’t want more?”

Oh and the real estate deal is still stressing me out – please send positive thoughts!  But I’m spiffily dressed throughout it!!

Sewaholic Thurlow Pants

I have a severe lack of dress pants – I work in a real estate office where it’s super casual and jeans are fine. However I do like to up it a notch, and one thing that’s been lacking is dressy pants. The pants I tweaked to fit me last year are now too big, which is a good thing and dress pants have been on my list for a while. These pants are my first version of Sewaholic’s Thurlow Pants. If you haven’t been over to visit the super cute Tasia’s Sewaholic Site I highly recommend it!  Her patterns are lovely and she’s Canadian!!

These pants have welt back pockets, a curved waistband, fly front, angled front pockets, belt carriers and have a menswear-design to the back, the pattern is designed so that you sew the centre back seam last to help fit.  They are designed to fit a pear-shaped figure.

Here’s the pattern:

For my first crack at these pants I cut a 14.  They were way too big (I went by the pattern measurements, not the flat pattern).  They were so big I would cut a 10 next time as the pattern sizes are pretty closely graded.  They are also pretty long, so I only had to add 3″ to the pants length.  I did not alter the back (as you can see below) – I wanted to see how they would fit out of the envelope.

The instructions are excellent, my only hiccup was that the welt pockets have a facing from fashion fabric so that the lining doesn’t show through the pocket opening.  That part is not very well illustrated; it’s hard to tell which way’s up when you put on the lining.  I would recommend pinning and folding up to see if you have the pieces lined up properly.

I like the curved waistband, it fits beautifully.  And I also like the menswear construction techniques.

I ended up taking the side and back seams in so much that my front pockets are teeny tiny!  Cutting the correct size will certainly help.  As you can see from the back view, there are some fitting issues, with the excess fabric under the butt.  After these photos were taken I scooped out the back crotch some more, which helped.  I’ll get DH to take an ‘after’ shot sometime so I can compare with this ‘before’!  The front does not look too bad, IMHO.

The fabric is a pinstripe wool from the Wool House, with some silk remnants used for the lining.  The waistband is also lined in silk, although I suppose it could be self lined.  I have enough of the wool left for a skirt.  The top I’m wearing is a Simplicity tank top combined with the ruffle from the Selfish Seamstress’ Coffee Date Dress

Toronto Sewing Blogger Meet – up

I have to leave on a ski-trip where my hubs and I are the chief cooks early the next day, so I’m not sure if I can make it – but I thought I would at least spread the word!

Grammy Fashions

I love watching the Grammys!  Ok, I’m not a Mumford & Sons fan, I don’t really get the bluegrassy twangin stuff, it’s just not my thing.  But I love the fashion and the live performances, this year especially Bruno Mars/Sting, Justin Timberlake and Kelly Clarkson.  In the weird/interesting category was Jack White. In the just plain wierd category was Frank Ocean.

In the fashions, my fave pics where:

Jack White’s amazing embroidered suit:

J-Lo and Kelly Rowlands for best use of black:

Best dress you had to stand absolutely still in by Carrie Underwood:

Best funky space-fairy rocker chick look from Kimbra:

And finally, my husband’s favourite, guess why:

What were your favourites??