Thanks for the comments on my previous posts.  Based on the input I received from the fitting expert and thanks to inspiration from Claire to mark the grainline on the pants back where I can see it, I made several adjustments to the pants back.  I’m going to post the evolution in order:

1.  First the Pants that Shocked Me.  Burda Style pattern:

Burda Style Pants
With this first pair I was unhappy with the drag lines under the bum and the excess of fabric on the back of the pants.
2.  Second pair was made using this pattern but cutting them without seam allowances.  Horrible. Pictures have been destroyed
3.  Muslin of Simplicity OOP pattern, made from drapey fabric.  I did a “fisheye” adjustment, removing the excess fabric under the bum.  I was pretty happy with the results:

Muslin of Simplicity Pants


 However the good pants, made from a tight weave twill ended up looking substantially different:

Final Simplicity – Wadder #2
As you can see these are horrendously tight and the wrinkles are back. 
After showing the ‘before’ and ‘after’ and having the instructor look at the pants I wore to the show, which I made; her advice was to do:
  • a swayback adjustment
  • a prominent calf adjustment
  • a knock knee adjustment
  • a lowered buttock adjustment
  • lengthen legs
  • I also had to lengthen the side seam about 1″, tapering to the CB & CF

Here is the muslin result, I started with a Burda envelope pattern this time:

From this I can see very clearly that the legs are twisted to the inseam, so I need to adjust them to the centre – If you see where the grainline extends, I probably need to adjust that by 2-3″!!

It also looks like I may need to make a further calf adjustment, but I think I will straighten the back to grain first, then deal with that aspect.  I will try and do it by releasing the inseam and seeing how much I need to add to straighten the grainline.  Stay tuned for more pics.  

Your thoughts and comments appreciated!