Thanks for the comments on my previous posts. Based on the input I received from the fitting expert and thanks to inspiration from Claire to mark the grainline on the pants back where I can see it, I made several adjustments to the pants back. I’m going to post the evolution in order:
1. First the Pants that Shocked Me. Burda Style pattern:
However the good pants, made from a tight weave twill ended up looking substantially different:
a swayback adjustment
a prominent calf adjustment
a knock knee adjustment
a lowered buttock adjustment
I also had to lengthen the side seam about 1″, tapering to the CB & CF
Here is the muslin result, I started with a Burda envelope pattern this time:
From this I can see very clearly that the legs are twisted to the inseam, so I need to adjust them to the centre – If you see where the grainline extends, I probably need to adjust that by 2-3″!!
It also looks like I may need to make a further calf adjustment, but I think I will straighten the back to grain first, then deal with that aspect. I will try and do it by releasing the inseam and seeing how much I need to add to straighten the grainline. Stay tuned for more pics.
Your thoughts and comments appreciated!